Formation

The park is part of the Paine Massif, which lies east of the high Andean spine. The massifs are a relatively short 17- mile column of mountains emerging suddenly from the plains of the Patagonian steppes. The mountains are granite, capped by a purple -blue sedimentary rock. In geological terms, the Paine (PIE-nay) range is an upthrusted batholith, a giant bubble of once molten granite that rose from the Earth and was later iced over with massive glaciers. As the glaciers retreated, they cut deep gashes and left an uproar of mystical jagged peaks. Deep pits spooned from the surrounding earth were filled with melting ice, creating a poignant a daisy chain of colorful lakes around the fortress-like mountains.

The Paine uplift is almost completely encircled by the Rio Paine. The river begins at Lago Dickson, then crosses through the Paine, Nordenskjold and Pehoe lakes and empties into the Lago del Toro The intense upper chakra colors of the parks's lakes and rivers waters are caused by pulverized silt created from the glaciers grinding retreat. The accumulation of this sediment in the river basins leading from lake to lake causes the amazing colors of blue and green. I have only experienced similar colors in waters found in the Canadian Rockies, Lake Powell and the European Alps.

Tyb's Journey: Arrival

The Park is not easy to get to, in fact you really have to want to go there. My two tiered flight from Dallas took eleven hours, and was capped with a five-hour bus ride. I was having second thoughts of the extreme effort I had gone to as I collapsed wearily into my bed at the Hosteria del Torres. It was well after midnight, some 20 hours after I had left home. I was beyond tired.

One look out the window next morning, and I remembered why I came.

Every direction offered panoramic views of snowcapped mountains, green flowered fields, rolling hills of wheat hued pampas and beautiful waters. The beauty was almost too perfect, it was so overwhelming, it made me melancholy. Amazing beauty is fleeting, and the fruitless attempt to keep it is a metaphor of the inability to capture time. Change is the nature of temporal life. And indeed temporal change comes quickly in Patagonia, as I soon learned. A single day can, and will display all four seasons.

Bright mornings rarely remain bright for long in Patagonia. The summer day is quickly transformed as irate winds whip into angry gray pitch. Rain can suddenly lash down, stinging hands and face. Thick gray fog rolls in with no warning….and suddenly the picturesque world has disappeared. On low ground, it's bad enough, downright scary if you're up at the base of the towers. The weather here is raw, it is a factor. Crystal rivers can swell to raging dark torrents in hours.

Now, despite the villainy of this description, this is an amazingly tranquil, inviting place. It is a spiritual cornucopia of magic and well being. All life abounds. Torres del Paine teems with fauna… huge furry rabbits, sleek puma, enormous condor, hawks, eagles, emu and fuzzy guanacos, the Chilean cousin to llamas.

But it is the Paine Mountains, the incredible jagged spire Towers and Horns that generate the brow and crown energy, that dominate the character of this utopia. The incredible indigo Towers are the magnet that pulled me to southern Patagonia. I could not wait to see them. That would prove harder than I realized.

Journey to 'Los Cuernos' Day Two

My journey to the Paine Horns was by horseback. Not exactly Clydesdales but darned close. The horses were enormous and healthy. The one chosen for me had a wonderful presence, very steady. I developed a tremendous respect for this mighty animal, who literally carried my life on his back, as we returned through rain swollen rivers thigh high.

I was the lone rider this day. My guides decided we could go despite the forecast of thunderstorms. Both guides were wonderful young souls, very endearing and capable earth keepers. Claudia a hearty Patagonian girl of 24, and Gato a burly, athletic gaucho who had a mastery of riding. He exuded an air of competence, and well being.

The journey to the Horns passed along glacier moraines and steppes painted with browns and reds. After a few miles we reached the blue green Pehoe Lake and rode along steep trails with granite boulders outcropped along the sloping sides. The view was incredible. As we entered the crevice of 'Valle Francais' the beauty and feelings intensified. The horses crunched through gravel bedded streams with clear flowing waters, through magical steppes of flowing pampas.

Magnetic Vortex

Overhead wispy mists swirled above darker cirrus clouds, giving way to the spaceship-like lenticular clouds that seem always to nest atop magnetic mountains.

There were trees with serpentine knarled roots and outreaching limbs, twisted in the telltale fashion of vortex energies. We rode onward through iridescent fields, with rocks covered in burgundy and orange lichen.

The sense of the devic kingdom, of elves and gnomes lurking behind knobbed and corkscrewed tree trunks was tangible. Flowers were everywhere. The flora was like nothing I had seen before. Amazing colors that only occur in very wet climates. So many shades of greens! Small evergreens were decorated like Christmas trees with yellow clusters of miniature mistletoe that were so bright that seemed to glow! A rare lacy green moss called grandpa's beard draped symmetrically from the limbs of hardwoods. Although hearty, these will grow in only the purest air.

The area was primarily volcanic, and the energy of place had a 'zingy' electrical feel. Very male, but perfectly balanced by the female telluric expressions of soothing lakes and majestic inland fiords.

Experience of the Horns

When we finally reached the base of the Horns, the drizzle had become a steady rain. We found shelter in the 'refugio' and drank warm Andean tea by a wood fed cast-iron stove. I got warm and toasty very quickly. The rain passed in an hour and as suddenly as it came the gray clouds were swept away.

It is simply impossible to describe the contrast of how the scenery would shift from foggy, dreary gray to a sparkling wonderment of polished light. When the rain clouds lifted their veil, the glory of the Paine Horns was simply brilliant beyond words. During the rain, visibility was limited to little over 400 feet, the spectacular mountains disappeared.

As I exited the refugio, the curtain of clouds was pulled back to reveal the smooth walls of the Cuernos. The vertical rise of the Paine Horns is incredible. The Paine Horns rise from 300 feet at base to nearly 7500 feet. The mountains are a batholith of blue granite, with shaded strata of purple-gray shale along the crown. They curve into an impressive crescent shape, thus the 'Blue-Horns' description, although the Indian word can also be translated as crown. An amazing site, and energy. The blue rock pulsed.

Grid Activation

I had scheduled (through the Hotspots website) a coordinated 'Grid-Activation Meditation' to take place on the day I arrived at the Paine Horns. I found the perfect spot on a granite table at Horn base for the meditation. The designated activation was for 2 pm. I nestled in, and within moments of my mediation I connected deeply into the spirit presence of the Twin Horns. I visualized the light grid connecting to the horns and towers.

I made sequential connection with grid team members in Dakota, Georgia, New York, Texas, Sedona, Cornwall, Alberta, San Diego, Machu Picchu, Guatemala, Bogota, Shasta and Seattle. Visual focus came easy in the amplified energy.

Geometric Energy Projections

Interestingly, in the midst of my activation, I received a strong visual of sacred geometry patterns being projected from the Paine Towers and Paine Horns. It was as if the 17-mile mastiff ridge had an auric merkaba grid along its length that projected certain Platonic Solids at key apex points. I sensed multi octahedron shapes at the towers and a singular dodecahedron sphere at the Horns. I knew that this 17-mile corridor is a single living presence. Quite a unique expression of Gaia.

My mediation was deep and cleansing. It began raining again as I completed the hour. When I rose from the granite table, I had the strange sensation of being enormous. For a few fleeting seconds I felt like I was 200 feet tall, still inside my body, but in a huge titan body looking down at all of this splendor. That is a bizarre sensation, yet I have had it on rare occasions during vision quests and after deep mediations in powerful spots. I am not certain of what occurs, perhaps a greater part of my being is flooded into my merkaba and I see through 12 chakras instead of 7 for a few moments.

Day Three- The Indigo Towers

The next morning, I began my trek to the Towers themselves. It was an arduous, experience. We rode horseback to the refugio of the Towers. It rained most of the way. I hunched inside my poncho, dreary as the rain fell steadily around me. As we reached the refugio, the rain increased to a furious downpour. The guides explained to me in Spanish that the weather I was experiencing was typical.

It is rare for a day to come without at least some rain, but that the rain rarely lasts all day. At the rufigio of the towers, we were required to go on foot for another 2 hours on a steep trail switchbacked up the moraine slake. Unfortunately, the trail became an eddied stream of rainwater, and the Park rangers made the decision to close the trail for the day.

I would be allowed to advance laterally on a to a hilltop that offered a closer view of the Blue Towers, but was separated by a massive ravine and lake. It would bring me within visual and energetic field of the Towers, but would not put me at their base. It was not what I had wanted, but did prove to be all I would need.

For a fleeting hour, the curtain of gray opened to allow me a full view of the granite Gods. In the green filtered light of the paused storm, the Towers took on a blue- violet hue. Like mood stones the monoliths would shift from pearl- gray, to indigo blue to red-orange, depending on the lighting. It was as if the frequency of their energetic output shifted with the colors. A shifting light-activation similar to those I had experienced at both Mount Shasta and Enchanted Rock.

I harvested years of anticipation within a forty-minute view of the sacred towers. I tingled with energy and connected to the presence. I lived every second with the timeless joy of fulfilling a dream. I had a love and recognition of the towers the minute I saw them a decade earlier. I communed with them and left a piece of myself within their space.
Even before Gato called me for departure, I knew it was time to leave. I was ready, but I felt sad. I was saying goodbye to a presence I would likely never see again.

We had to depart to before the swelling Rio Paine rose too high to cross.

Departure

Later, during the horseback ride back down, the skies again cleared, and I saw the sacred towers standing like the three wise men of the East for another precious moment. The pale blue backdrop became a framed tableau in sharp contrast to the pearl gray of the towers. I shifted in the saddle, unable to resist frequent looks over my shoulder. All too soon the wise men became draped in misty robes, and faded from sight.

As we reached the slopes of majestic Lago Pehoé, the wind kicked up and rain lashed us. As if replacing the towers, three Andean condors came into view, tracing spirals across the opal sky. A potent omen.

As the condors disappeared into leaden clouds, I stretched a grin across my wind-burnt face. I understood then, that to step through the magic looking glass into this mountain paradise, one has to swallow the pills of wind and weather. One has to enter the labyrinth.

When dues are paid, the magical gift that is Torres del Paine is fully revealed, in the twinkle of an eye….and then they are gone.

Torres del Paine

Torres del Paine literally translates to Indigo Towers. Paine comes from a Tehuelche Indian word meaning violet-blue, describing the hue of the mountains at sunset. Torres is of course is Spanish for 'towers'.

While Torres del Paine National Park is becoming the primary eco-tourist attraction in the southern Patagonia region of both Chile and Argentina, it is still rather sparsely frequented in terms of its enormity.

Only a half dozen hostels are allowed on its property with two full-fledged hotels. The park was created in 1959 and declared a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 1978. There was divine intervention in that act, as powerful Japanese and American lumber and mining interests were attempting to buy massive tracts of land from the 'Estancia Cattle barons, for 'industrial development', at the time. The exploitation was halted by an amazing synchronicity of events that led to the land being bought by and donated to the government for use as a National Park and Global Treasure.

Haven of Serenity

The Park is truly a haven. It remains pristine and resplendent, and serves as a balancing reservoir to Mother Earth. The Torres are being activated as a potent light grid portal, along with several significant areas in Chile, including Volcan Osourno (central Chile), and Canjo Maipo (northern Chile).

The serenity is especially balancing. I found a deep peace and cleansing energy in the land. I sensed incredible energy pouring into the 'Cuernos' and outward from the 'Torres'. Ley energy abounds, as do spiraling fountains of electrical vortexes. I did experience the primary energy to be magnetic in the perimeter flow, with the Torres themselves as exploding cannons of crown energy.

Lapis Lazuli

It is interesting to note that Chile contains the largest deposits, and is the largest producer of lapis lazuli. A precious gem that carries a divine frequency. The energetic vortex that is created by the massive deposits of lapis in Chile is being anchored by many special angelic souls in spiritual communities. Afghanistan also contains massive deposits of lapis lazuli, but this energy has been greatly disrupted in recent months by the old energy negativity and violence.

Lapis deposits as well as jade, gold and silver are abundant along the Andean spine of Chile.

Twin Giants of the 'Horns'

The mountains of Torres del Paine held significance for the region's native inhabitants. The Tehuelche Indians were an extremely hearty race, who interestingly enough, adapted physically with the ability to live totally nude in the snow laden winters and wet summers of Patagonia for centuries. The tribe rarely experienced illness and had an unusually long life span comparatively to other indigenous peoples. Talk about thick-skinned !

According to Tehuelche legend, the longevity and fortitude of the people came from the protection of the mountain guardians of the Twin-Horns and Towers.

According to their myth, an evil flying serpent called Cai Cai caused a massive flood to devastate most of the warrior tribe that lived in Torres del Paine eons ago. When the floodwaters receded, the surviving people were weak and dying. Two powerful Tehuelche warriors prayed to Great Spirit for protection and strength from future floods and for the ability to live long fruitful lives in the severe climate. The Spirits granted the wish, and the two warriors were transformed into stone giants, becoming the twin horns that crown the mountaintop of Cuernos del Paine. They protect the area for time eternal, as guardians of the land. The Gods then immortalized the condor, puma and guanaco, as the three 'Towers' offering wisdom, strength and sustenance for the guardians and tribe.

When I read story of the two warrior giants on my flight back to Texas, I immediately connected it to my experience of feeling like a 200' giant when I meditated at the base of the Twin Horns. I had a moment of clarity, and smiled at the validation.

I would note in epilogue, that I did not sense any real connection to either LeMuria or Atlantis in Torres del Paine.

Information

At the entrance, informative park guards can help plan hikes using a detailed map of the park. The park has many roads and hiking trails to choose. Camping is available, as is lodging such as the Posada Serrano, Hosteria Estancia Las Torres, Hotel Explora, Hosteria Lago Grey, Hosteria Estancia Lazo and others located on the way from Puerto Natales and the park.

Be prepared for rain, but persevere. When it clears, the scenery is a polished diamond of unbelievable light.

And so it is….
Tyberonn © Mar 20 2001

Torres del Paine Photo Album
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